I only have 18 km for today, so I didn’t rush waking up. Unlike the fellow pilgrims in the dormitory, who woke up at 4:45 and repeatedly stopped the alarm every 10 minutes thereafter, I chose to sleep in. Finally, the guy switched on his headlight and started to pack. Here is a tip for all future pilgrims. If you leave early, do it quickly and quietly. Headlights with an optional red light won’t disturb others, while you still see what you need to.
I had some sweets for breakfast and left the albergue shortly after 08:00, still at dawn. It was 9°C in the morning. A bit chilly. After leaving Guillena by crossing a river, I reached the industrial hub of the town in about 30 minutes. From here the Camino goes through olive gardens and solar panel parks. The terrain was rocky but easy to walk. I was much slower today, however, because the route was constantly ascending. There were no climbs, just a slow ascent.
Spring is beautiful here. Rockroses are blooming everywhere, the grass is still green, and the air is fresh. This spring is different from what I am used to. After 11:00, you can already feel the power of the sun.
The stage was not that monotonous, as I expected. There were solar panels on the right and left sides, and some construction was underway to build new ones. I only stopped twice for a few minutes to drink some water and eat a protein bar. Today is a very short stage, and I am not in a hurry. I have enough time to reflect and think.
I reached my daily destination at 12:00. The next town is far away, and there are no villages or accommodations available within 30 kilometres. The albergue opens at 13:00, so I had enough time to rest.
I talked to a Ukrainian girl from Poland, while waiting for the albergue to open. She has walked all the Caminos, like most of the pilgrims around: no one starts with the Vía de la Plata. She has lived in Poland for a while; now she has the citizenship. She is looking for a job: if she gets an offer, she stops; if not, she walks to Santiago. She told me stories about her family. Her parents and sister moved to Australia; her aunts still live in Ukraine, close to the frontline.
I also talked to a guy, who lives and works in Madrid. If I got it right, he is Israeli. He was walking together with a Spanish guy. There is also a Dutch couple and an older French man here. Looks a bit like a hobo, with dishevelled grey hair, funny sunglasses, and smoking a pipe.
I bought some grocieries and prepared a nice meal for lunch. I added a zucchini, a tomato and leeks to the tomatosauce ratatouillee with tortellini. I also bought some doughnuts and a banana for tomorrow. It will be a longer stage without urban areas.
In the afternoon I enjoyed the sun and stretched my feet. The dormitory is rather cold. I won’t regret bringing a sleeping bag instead of a liner.
Daily spending:
€15 – grocery
€10 – accommodation